(Editing) COLOR ADJUSTING

Click here to show the Color Adjusting screen.

Let's say you want to take a photo and make it brighter or add some contrast etc. This is where you would do such operations. You can also color balance (remove yellowish tint from indoor photos taken without flash). In addition, you can brighten selected regions of the image. And as an added bonus, you can COPY and PASTE portions of images onto the same image or a different image. You can also sharpen or smooth portions of an image  to create a 3-D appearance as well. You can also use it to create a double-exposure photo.You can also use the gamma to fix under-exposed or over-exposed images.

Just click on the SUN button on the Quick Tools panel, then you will see the Color Adjusting Screen.

If you want to Color Adjust a bunch of photos all at once, you can do so with the Batch Feature.

From the Color Adjusting window you have many sliders:

Contrast

Brightness

Gamma

Shadows/Highlights

Saturation

Hue

Color Balance

Color Range (Unique Feature)

Less / More Coloration

Green/Yellow default indicators buttons:
These are round buttons that appear to the left of the sliders. When green, they indicate that the sliders are in the default position (no image adjustments). As you move the sliders, the indicators will turn yellow. This means you have requested some image adjustement for that slider.
HINT: You can click on the yellow indicator button to return the sliders back to the default position. The button will turn green again as well. If you click the button again, the button will turn yellow again, and the settings will go BACK to the adjustment setting you had set before clicking it the first time. Basically it's a toggle button..

How do I control the Order In Which the Adjustments are made?
There are many adjustments you can do to an image. In fact, there are 12 different types of adjustments. The order in which each adjustment occurs is controlled by the "Order Of Processing" window. And you can see the order, by their numbering on the Ordering Panel.

NOTE: You may THINK that you can control the order in which the various adjustements are made by simply doing ONE adjustment and then clicking APPLY. And then doing the next adjustment and then clicking APPLY and so on. And you would be correct..... sort of. Sure the order would be the order you wanted, BUT the QUALITY in the burned out areas or dark/black areas could be diminished. A simple example would be to take a sky photo and crank on the contrast so that most of the clouds become burned out (solid white). Then apply., Then reduce the brightness so as to bring back the detail of the clouds. Well, that won't work, because you will have solid white areas that are now darker. You won't see the detail come back in. For details on multiple adjustments, click here.

These sliders allow you to control the amount of adjustment.
The following adjustment features are listed in the order in which they get processed by default. You can of course change the order in which they are processed. Since the Color Range feature doesn't alter the image in any particular way, it is shown as the first feature. All the rest of the features DO alter the appearance of the image and so they each have a number next to them indicating the order in when they get processed. The Color Range feature does NOT alter the image in a particular way. It just acts like a FILTER. It controls what parts of the image DO get altered by the OTHER sliders.

COLOR RANGE OPTIONS:

Let's say that you want to make a red sweater look like a blue sweater. You could spend hours and hours hand editing your image, OR you could use this option.

Basically, you select a color that you want to change/alter/adjust. We call this color the Color Range. Then you play with the sliders for adjustements like brightness, saturation, hue, etc... You will notice that ONLY COLORS IN THE IMAGE THAT MATCH YOUR COLOR RANGE WILL BE AFFECTED. So, if you added brightness, you would see the red becoming brighter. If you played with the hue, you would see the red sweater become another color (like blue or green or whatever). The reason this feature is so powerful is because a red sweater is actually made up of a LOT OF DIFFERENT COLORS and yet the whole sweater becomes a different color WITHOUT affecting the rest of the image. There are lots of varying tints involved and varying shades of the same color involved. There are 2 sliders that control the sensitivity of determining what colors should be considered a match. As you slide the "Color" slider to the left, then the colors being transformed are more limited because they have to be closer to the "Color Range" you selected. As you slide the "Shade" slider to the left, then the shades that get transformed are more limited because they have to be closer in brightness to the "Color Range" you selected.

3 EASY STEPS:

Select "Color Range" option:  Checkmark the "Color Range" checkbox.

Select "Color Range" color:  You can click on the colored square next to the "Color Range" option. You will see an Eye-Dropper icon for your mouse. Click on the red in your sweater, then when finished selecting the color, click on the "Stop Selecting Color" button. You also have the choice to pick a color from a color wheel. Typically for photos, pick a color from the image. Try to pick a color that is an average of the brightest red and darkest red of the sweater you are trying to change. Otherwise, if you picked the brightest red, then only the bright red to medium red areas will get adjusted.

Color Sensitivity: Adjust to right for more color range tolerance(more colors close to the selected color are affected), or to the left for less tolerance.

Shade Sensitivity: Adjust to right for more shade tolerance(more shades of the selected color are affected) and to the left for less tolerance.

TIP: The default settings of the sliders are good for photos because you need some relaxation on the color matching. Otherwise maybe only a few dots on the image would get transformed instead of the whole sweater. Likewise, if you are working on a cartoon, line-art, graph or some image with lots of solid colored areas, then you may want to slide the sliders all the way to the LEFT. That way, only the specific color you select will get transformed.

HINT: You may have a photo with someone with a red sweater and a red hat. If you only want to change the color of the HAT, then you may think....hmmmm....(If I change the hat, then the sweater gets changed). You can get around this by going into the Region Drawing mode. This allows you to draw a region around the hat. Then only that portion of the image gets adjusted. You don't even have to be very good about drawing the region around the hat. Just draw a circle around it and since the Color Range searches out a specific range of colors to adjust, you will see that only the hat gets adjusted. Pretty slick.

MORE POWER:
You can use this feature to make blue skies bluer, and red sunsets reder and green trees greener too. Just select your Color Range from a dot in your sky. Then use the hue slider to make minor changes to the tint. Then you can use the Less/More sliders to increase the particular colors of interest.

Hue Slider:
This slider allows you to control the hue. So, basically you can rotate the colors. Red becomes green and green becomes blue and blue becomes red. You can produce some very interesting effects this way.

COLOR BALANCE:
If you want to take a photo that has certain tint and remove the tint, then use the Color Balance button next to the Color Balance slider. When you click on it, you get 3 different methods of removing the tint.

Auto Select - This allows you to automatically detect the tint color and remove it. Works great about 90% of the time.

Select White Point On Image - This allows you to click on a part of the image that you believe is supposed to be white in real life. Once you click it, the program automatically knows what the tint color is and removes it. After you are done selecting the white point, click the "Stop Selecting White Point" button.

Select Color From Color Wheel - If there are no areas that you believe to be white in the photo (like a piece of paper), then the last ditch effort would be to manually pick a color. You can change the color quickly in real time by dragging a color marker around a colorerd wheel.

NOTE: After you have selected a color, you should use the "Color Balance Slider" to control the amount of tint removal from the entire image or from the selected region.

Saturation Slider:
This slider allows you to control the amount of saturation in an image. It works better than other applications, because when you reduce the saturation down to zero, the other applications do NOT work properly. Photo Jockey on the other hand DOES. The resulting image looks just like the Gray Scale version. And it SHOULD. Other programs do not produce a final image that is just like the gray scale version.

Gamma Slider: (Fixing UnderExposed / OverExposed images)  (All channels or specific color)
This slider allows you to control the amount of GAMMA. The more gamma, the darker the image becomes. BUT UNLIKE the brightness slider, the gamma slider will make bright areas much darker and dark areas a little darker. That way you don't wind up with an under exposed image.  As you use less gamma, real dark areas become much brighter and bright areas become a little bright. That way you don't wind up with an over exposed image. This makes the histogram squeeze to the left or right. NOTE: Once you go past 3 notches to the left or right of the default position, your image will become more grainy. Play with it to get the desired results.
TIP: Typically, you would select "Gamma ALL". This takes all 3 color channels (Red, Green, Blue) and applies gamma to them. If you want to do specialized gamma, then you could select which color channels get applied.

Contrast Slider:  (All channels or specific color)
This slider allows you to control the amount of contrast in the image. The MORE contrast, the dark areas become darker and the bright areas become more bright. This makes the histogram squeeze or stretch.
TIP: Typically, you would select "Contrast ALL". This takes all 3 color channels (Red, Green, Blue) and applies contrast to them. If you want to do specialized contrasting, then you could select which color channels get applied.

Brightness Slider:  (All channels or specific color)
This slider allows you to control the amount of brightness in the image. The MORE brightness, then all areas of the image become brighter. This makes the histogram crawl to the right or left. The default is to use all channels so that the image becomes brighter. You can select ALL, Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, Magenta, Cyan. If you select Yellow, then only the yellow is added to the image.
TIP: If you are doing color separation then you could select the Yellow channel and slide the slider all the way to the left so that what remains is only the BLUE part of the image. If you select Magenta and do the same thing you would be left with the GREEN part of the image and if you use the CYAN channel, you would be left with the RED part of the image.

Shadows / Highlights:
If you have an image that needs selective brightness, then you should NOT use the brightness slider. The brightness slider adds brightness to the ENTIRE IMAGE. The HIGHLIGHTS slider adds brightness to bright areas of the image. The SHADOWS slider adds darkness to dark areas of the image. This is also better than the contrast slider, because adding contrast not only makes bright areas brighter, but it ALSO makes dark areas darker. So, if you just want to add highlights or just want to add shadows, this is the slider for you. You can even customize the range of brightness that is considered shadows or highlights. See more information on the Shadows / Highlights Customization Screen.

RGB (BY STRENGTH):
The RGB sliders allow you to increase or decrease the amount of either the RED, GREEN or BLUE color channel of the image. The difference between this option being checked or unchecked is the way in which the color is added or subtracted.

UNCHECKED: These sliders allow you to increase or decrease the amount of either the RED, GREEN or BLUE channels of the image. The difference between this and the "Brightness Slider" is that the brightness slider adds to the brightness of the image. This may not be desired. You may want to maintain the overal brightness while adding more Red, Green or Blue to your image. That's where these controls come in handy. For example: When you add more green, it will ALSO take out some red and blue (so as to keep the general brightness). Of course in extreme slider settings this can't be maintained, because your eyes are more sensitive to Green than it is to red and blue. But for minor changes in coloration, it works great.

CHECKED: This option, (By Strength), adds or subtracts a specific color based on the STRENGTH of that color in the image. This option allows you to use the sliders to NOT just add a color to the entire image, but INSTEAD it adds a specific color to areas of the image that already contain the specific color. Areas that do NOT contain much RED will NOT have much RED added. Areas that have a lot of RED will have more RED added. This is very useful for color correcting RAW Images from digital cameras. If you are color correcting RAW images, it's best to try RGB slider values that DO NOT GO NEGATIVE. Keep them at ZERO and above. Otherwise your highlights (burn-out areas) may change from white to some color like purple or green etc....

COLOR SHUFFLE pulldown list:
This pulldown list contains a list of color translations that you may want to do. For example: Let's say that you want all GREEN to be RED and all BLUE to be GREEN and all RED to be BLUE. Then you would select the RGB=BRG item from the list. The default value is RGB=RGB, which says that RED is red and GREEN is green and BLUE is blue. So basically NO color translation is done.

NEGATIVE IMAGE checkbox:
Check the NEGATIVE IMAGE checkbox if you want to turn your photo into a negative.

GRAY SCALE IMAGE checkbox:
Check the GRAY SCALE IMAGE checkbox if you want to turn your photo into a black & white photo.

SEPIA EFFECT checkbox:
Check the SEPIA EFFECT checkbox if you want to turn your photo into an old style photo.


TIP: Auto Adjust Contrast/Brightness button allows you to automatically adjust a photo for you. It works very well on about 90% of all photos.

TIP: Auto Adjust Color Balance button allows you to automatically color balance a photo for you. It works very well on about 90% of all photos. This removes the yellowish tint from indoor photos. It can also remove ANY tint that you select using the "Color Balance" button next to the Color Balance slider.




FULL SIZED PREVIEW (checkbox)
It's preferred that you adjust all your photos while in the small preview mode. This makes all the adjustments faster. In fact you can slide the sliders and the preview image is updated in real-time. If you MUST see the image in real size while you are moving the sliders, you can check the "Full Sized Preview (Slower)" checkbox. This of course is slower but you can see more detail in the image.

SHOW STARTING IMAGE (checkbox)
As you adjust your sliders and settings, you are always shown the image with the settings applied in your preview area. BUT let's say you wanted to COMPARE the applied image with the image BEFORE the settings are applied. This way you can see JUST HOW MUCH CHANGE you've made to the image. Just check the checkbox and you will see the image as it was BEFORE your changes. At this point you can scroll around but nothing else. Then UNCHECK it and you are back to normal again.


HINT: While you are adjusting the sliders, certain areas of the photo may become OVER EXPOSED (white). These areas are shown in the "Deterioration Color". The default is RED. You can of course change it to any color you wish. The nice thing is that you can see in real-time if you are making the photo too bright etc. In fact, you can select from 3 choices to show areas of deterioration.

NONE - No deterioration is shown in red: This makes it so that you don't see any RED (deteriorated) areas in the preview image.

Near Over Exposure: This makes it so that areas that are near over exposure or areas that are over exposed are shown in RED in the preview image. These are areas that are beyond white and below black.

Near Over Exposure & Deterioration: This shows the over exposure areas PLUS any areas that are deemed to be areas of degrading quality. For example: Let's say you have a blue flower and you increase the contrast to where some of the blue has become blue-green. Well, this is NOT over exposure, BUT it is degraded quality. Also, flesh colors can become REDISH when you apply high contrast. So this is a nice feature to be able to see.

Histogram & Gamma Curve

The histogram shown is a standard chart. It shows how much of the image is bright and how much is dark etc. The Gamma setting is also shown on the histogram graph as a Green line/curve.

Main Buttons:

ACCEPT:
This takes the current adjustments and then applies them to the photo and sends you back to the main Photo Jockey window WITHOUT SAVING the image. You MUST save the image back to disk, from the main Photo Jockey window,  if you want to keep it for future use..

CANCEL:
This quits the Color Adjustments Screen and sends you back to the main Photo Jockey window.

APPLY:
This applies the current adjustments to the image. So when the region is adjusted the way you want it, then click the Apply button.

NOTE: Please note that you can click "Apply" as many times as you need while making your adjustments. BUT you should NOT click "Apply" if you are on your LAST adjustment. In other words, DO NOT CLICK APPLY, if you are done with all of your adjustments. If you are done, you should click the "Accept" button. The reason is because when you click "Accept", it internally does the "Apply". You may say "So, what?". Well, let's say that you have a circle to make an area brighter and you click "Apply". Now that area is brighter. And you STILL have your region (circle) on the image in the upper left corner. Now you click "Accept". Since the "Accept" will do the "Apply" behind the scenes, your image will have 2 (TWO) regions that are brighter.

TIP: In order to make sure you don't have the above problem, you can do the following.... While you are in the Region Drawing mode, and you are finished, you should get rid of the region that is remaining on the image. Just click the "Draw Region" button and then click once on the image. That will remove the region.

UNDO:
This will undo the last APPLY you did. There are 100 levels of undo available (limited by free disk space). So, as you are making adjustments and you realize that you need to undo some changes you had made, just click this button.

REDO:
This will undo the last undo, so if you are undoing a bunch and then realize you went too far, you can click REDO to get back where you want to be.

REVERT:
If you decide that you have goofed up your image and want to start fresh again, click the "Revert" button. This reloads the image and you can start adjusting again.

PREVIOUS SETTINGS:
This is handy, if you had previously adjusted an image and forgot the settings you had just used. Just click this button and it automatically sets all the sliders for you to the SAME positions that they were in the last time you had clicked the ACCEPT button.

DEFAULT SETTINGS:
This button is a good starting point. It sets all the sliders to a position that is considered ORIGINAL settings. That means that NO adjustments are made to the image. Brightness is at original, Contrast is at original etc.
NOTE: If this button is yellow, then some slider adjustements have been made. If it's green, then all sliders are currently at default values.

REGION DRAWING:

Up to now, all the image adjustments have been performed on the entire image. This section describes how to perform image adjustments on just a selected portion of the image. Basically, you draw a region. It could be a square, triangle, circle or some irregular shape. Once you are done drawing the shape, then all of the image adjustments are done on just the region you had drawn.

In order to get into the region drawing mode, you need to select it from the pull down list that has these options:

Full Image Adjusting

Draw Region For Adjusting

Draw Region For Cloning, Pasting

How To Draw A Region

Start by selecting the "Draw Region For Adjusting" option. You are then put into a mode that allows you to draw any shape. The simplest way to draw is to click on the image in the image drawing window. Hold down on the mouse and move it around and you will see what you are drawing. When you let up on the mouse, your region is done drawing. If you want to draw ANOTHER region, just click on the "Draw Region" button from the Drawing Settings window. If you decide you do NOT want to draw a region, just click the "Drawing" button. Basically it's a toggle button it switches from "Draw Region" to "Drawing". If you see "Draw Region", then you are in scroll & drag mode. As you drag the mouse over the image, you will be scrolling the image. If you drag the mouse over the current region you will be dragging the region around. If you see "Drawing", then all you can do is to drag the mouse to draw a new region.

HINT: If your hands are shaky or not steady, your final region may NOT be exactly the shape you wanted. If order to modify the region's shape, you can change the "Select Drawing Mode" option to "Add To Current Region" from the Drawing Settings window. You can also select "Subtract From Current Region". After you have selected one of these two options, you can now draw more areas on the image. And depending on the Drawing Mode, you can make the region larger or smaller. Keep adjusting the region until you are happy with the region area.

NOTE: As you are drawing, you can switch from normal drawing into Line drawing by pressing ALT-V or ALT-S. ALT-V allows vertical or horizontal line drawing and ALT-S allows straight line drawing. ALT-C allows Circle drawing. ALT-F finishes the special drawing mode and switches back to normal drawing mode.

TIP: ALT-A selects ALL. This means the whole image is selected. There are 2 methods of selecting the entire image.

Select entire image (no border)

Select entire image (with border)

When using "no border", this is useful if you plan on using the CUT/PASTE features. If you use the "with border" option, it's useful if you plan on using the "Subtract From Current Region" option. Maybe to cut a hole out of the middle of the image and then apply the color changes to the outer part of the image. Then when using the "Edge Blending" slider, the edges of the image won't be affected. If you don't plan on using the "Subtract From Current Region" to cut a hole out, then method 2 is basically worthless, because it would be faster to just use the "Full Image Adjusting" mode.

Region Drawing Settings Window

Select Drawing Mode:
This controls how your region drawing works.

Draw New Region - Default: In this mode, when you are done drawing a region, you now have a new complete region.
Add To Current Region: In this mode the region you draw is ADDED to the current region that is already showing.
Subtract From Current Region: In this mode the region you draw is REMOVED from the current region already showing. This is useful to refine some edges or to create some holes in the current region.

Draw Region/Drawing:
This is a toggle that switches from DRAW REGION mode to DRAWING mode. While it says "Drawing" you can draw regions in the image. While it says "Draw Region", you can only drag the image or drag the drawn region around. If your mouse is over a region when you drag then the image won't scroll around, BUT the region WILL.

Up/Down/Left/Right/UpperLeft buttons:
These are fine tuning controls that allow you to move the current region up / down / left / right one unit, or to position it in the upper left corner of your main image.

Edge Blending Direction:
This controls the direction of the blending. The blending allows the region to soften the edges so that you don't see a visible harsh sharp edge. You can either blend in all directions (default), or you can Blend From Top, Blend From Right, Blend From Left, Blend From Bottom. A good reason to use one of the special blend directions might be if you have a photo that is taken with a flash, but the flash didn't cover enough of the subject and that the image is bright on the right side and dark on the left. You could draw a region around the subject and then select to brighten the region and select a blending of "Blend From Right". Then adjust the "Edge Blending Amount" a bunch and you will see that the subject is brightened MORE on the left than it is on the right.

Edge Blending Amount:
This controls how soft you want the edges of the region to appear to help hide the fact that you have doctored the image.

Flood Fill Region:
This allows you to fill in the region with a specified solid color. You can still use the "Edge Blending" slider to control how the edges of the region are blended with the fill color.

NOTE: If you are in Copy/Paste Drawing mode, then the flood fill color is used as the background image. So, as you increase the "Overlay Strength" sliders, you will see the flood fill color appear stronger. And again, you can use the "Edge Blending" slider as well.

Reverse Region:
This allows you to invert the region. Let's say you had drawn a little square in the middle of your image. If you select to "Reverse Region", then the region BECOMES the WHOLE image MINUS the little square in the middle. So the whole image, except the middle square gets the color adjustments performed on it.

NOTE: This option is NOT available if you are in "Draw Region For Copying, Pasting" mode.

FLASH Region Outline:
For a visual helping hand, you can have the drawn region flash so that you can locate it easy on a large photo. There may be times that you don't want to see it flash. UN-Check this option, if you don't want the region to flash.

COPY / PASTE / CLONE DRAWING:

In order to get into the cloning region drawing mode, you need to select it from the pull down list that has these options:

Full Image Adjusting

Draw Region For Adjusting

Draw Region For Copying/Pasting

Select "Draw Region For Cloning, Pasting". At this point you need to draw a region as described earlier in the section for Region Drawing. Once you have drawn your region, you can perform neat copy/paste/clone functions.

After you have drawn your region, you can DRAG the region to another spot on the photo and then click the Apply button in the main Color Adjustments window. You can then drag it some more and then click Apply again. This way you can quickly create multiple copies of something in the photo. Of course you will want to use the Edge Blending Amount slider to soften(feather) the edges around the region so that it doesn't look like a poor job.

Transparency:
These controls allow you to customize how your region is rendered. If you want part of the region to be SEE-THROUGH (transparent), then use these controls. You can check the Transparency checkbox, then select a Transparent color by clicking on the colored square next to it. What ever color you select will then become see-through (in the region) as the image is rendered on the screen.

NOTE: The two Tolerance sliders are similar to the "Color Range" sliders. If there are colors that are CLOSE to the transparent color, they will be considered transparent as well. You can control the color tolerance by using the top slider. If you want to control varying shades (brightnesses) of the selected background color to be consider transparent, then use the bottom of these 2 sliders.
TIP: You can checkmark the FADE OUT option to make it so that colors close to the transparent color will not be totally see-through, but instead partially see-through. The closer the colors are to the transparent color the more see-through the image becomes.

Overlay Strengths %:
These sliders control the visibility of the Main Image and the Overlay region. Each image (Main, Overlay) can have it's own visibility strength froim 0 to 100%. If you set both to 50% then you will see both images equally at 1/2 brightness. If you set both to 100%, then you have effectively made a DOUBLE-EXPOSURE. If you set both to 0% then you are not thinking properly, although IF USING A TRANSPARENT IMAGE, can produce a very neat black CUT-OUT type of effect.

NOTE: If you want the sliders to be LINKED so that as you move one, the other moves, you can click on the LINK BUTTON to the left of these sliders. It makes it EASY to FADE IN/OUT the overlay image. Try it, you will like it.

Resize Method PullDown:
If the percentage of enlargement is larger than 100%, the method you select here will be used to do the enlargement. The "Generic" method is that fastest and the "Reed" method is the best (typically for photos). Click here for more information about all the resize methods.

Region Copy Size %:
You can actually control the SIZE of the copied area easily. You can go from 25% up to 400%. If you want a percent larger than 100%, you can control what method is used to enlarge the image by using the "Resize Method Pulldown" option.

Refresh - ReCapture Button:
If you decide that you don't like what's in the copied region, you can move (drag) the copied region to another part of the photo, and then click the ReCapture button and the copied area will PICK-UP the new portion of the photo as the new copied area.

Copy Button:
If you are interested in copying a portion of an image into another image, then you can draw your copied region area. Then click the COPY button. This copies the region onto the clipboard that you can later paste from.

Paste Button:
After you have clicked the COPY button on a DRAWN region from one photo, you can load another photo, then click the PASTE button. Then poof, then old copied region is pasted into the new image. You also have the choice to paste in a Standard way. This pastes whatever is on the clipboard. You can copy images to the clipboard from many paint programs. You can also do it from your keyboard with the PrintScreen key or ALT-PrintScreen. You can also do it from Photo Jockey as well.

NOTE: After you paste, you can still use the other controls to control the SIZE of the region and mirror flip options too. Very handy!!!

Load Image Overlay Button:
This allows you to select an image to use as your overlay that you can drag around the screen. This is great for loading an image on top of another to produce a DOUBLE-EXPOSURE effect. The image that you load will have a rectangular region that CAN NOT BE ALTERED. IE: You can not add or subtract from the region. You can however draw a NEW region, which will of course discard the loaded image overlay.

Sharpen / Smooth Button:
After you have drawn your region area, just click on the "Sharpen / Smooth" button located after the COPY and PASTE buttons. This button takes you to the "Sharpening / Smoothing Effects" window. You can then apply the level of sharpness or smoothness that you wish. Then click the ACCEPT button in the "Sharpening / Smoothing Effects" window.

NOTE: ONLY THE REGION AREA that you had drawn will be sharpened or smoothed. It's probably a good idea to use the "Edge Blending Amount" slider so that region's edge won't be as noticable.

Mirror Button:
You can mirror the copied area in case you are cloning a head and the head is facing the wrong way :)

Flip Button:
Just like you can mirror the copied area, you can also FLIP the copied area from top to bottom.

TROUBLE SHOOTING:

Problem: When I draw a region, it looks real jagged, like it was drawn in low resolution.
Solution: When you draw your regions in a zoom mode of less than 100%, then the region WILL become more and more jagged in appearance as you lower the zoom slider. It's best to use 100% or higher, when drawing the region.
Exception: You will not have this problem if you use the CIRCLE mode or the STRAIGHT line drawing modes (ALT-C, ALT-S, ALT-V), even in low zoom modes.

Jump to Help table of contents...

---